When it comes to skincare, many of us have the “holy grail” few products that we swear by. Every skin type is different and if you’ve got something that works for you, it’s often hard to steer away from your tried and tested routine.
Recently, you might have seen word “retinol” popping up in beauty counters and TikTok posts everywhere. According to social media skincare fanatics, the ingredient promises blemish-free, glass-like skin—but what does it *actually* do? And is the dreaded “retinol purge” worth the results?
“Retinol is a form of retinoid that promotes cell turnover, leading to smoother skin texture and a more even skin tone,” says Katy Bacon, Murad’s Education Director and Dermal Therapist.
The reason many brands are incorporating retinoids into their formulations is because of their powerful cell-renewal and anti-aging properties. Retinoids stimulate collagen production, which helps soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol can also help with clogged pores, making it beneficial for those prone to acne or breakouts.
Sounds like a miracle product, right? Well, retinol does have some downsides, too. You may also have hear dof the dreaded “retinol purge,” or seen people online complain of their skin reacting to serums.
Accordingly, incorporating retinol into your routine requires careful attention.
To help you start on your retinol journey, we turned to Katy, as well as Dr. Courtney Rubin, a certified Dermatologist and Co-Founder of Fig.1 Skincare (which is backed by some big name partners such as Ashley Graham), for advice.
If you’re looking to add the retinoid to your skincare regimen, we’ve compiled a beginner’s guide on how to use retinol below.
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How To Use Retinol, For Beginners
If you’re new to retinol, it’s crucial to start with a low concentration to help your skin adjust.
Katy likens it to having a “personal trainer for the skin”. Begin gently, building your tolerance over time, and don’t hesitate to switch products if one isn’t working for you.
“There are over 4,000 different derivatives of retinoids on the market, so it’s worth trying a few before giving up,” Katy says.
More specifically, Dr. Rubin recommends starting with a concentration of 0.1-0.3% and using it 2-3 times a week at night.
It’s also important to be aware of what you can and can’t combine it with. Katy emphasises that combining retinol with other active ingredients can also increase sensitivity.
“When applying retinol, it’s best to avoid other potent skincare actives like glycolic acid or vitamin C,” she says.
To minimise irritation, consider applying a buffer, like a moisturiser, before your retinoid — and remember to wear sunscreen daily, as retinoids can increase your skin’s sensitivity to UV damage.
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The Difference Between Retinol, Retinoids, & Tretinoin
With so many technical terms, it’s important to understand what they actually mean before using them on your skin.
- Retinol esters, such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl linoleate, are the gentlest forms of vitamin A, making them ideal for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
- On the other hand, retinoids like retinol and retinaldehyde are more potent and can deliver faster, more dramatic results, making them suitable for those who are more experienced with retinoids.
- Tretinoin, a prescription-strength retinoid, is the most potent option available. It’s highly effective for treating severe acne, pronounced wrinkles, and significant hyperpigmentation. Be mindful, it can also cause irritation, dryness, and peeling, especially during the initial stages of use.
When Should You Start Using Retinol?
While many are attracted to the anti-aging benefits of retinol, it’s effective for all adults.
Individuals in their 20s and early 30s often use it as a preventive measure against early signs of aging and to manage acne, typically starting with a lower dosage.
For those in their 40s and beyond, a higher concentration of retinol is recommended, along with a more hydrating skincare routine to address dryness and sensitivity. Katy says that regardless of age, “it’s essential to introduce retinoids gradually, use sunscreen daily, and tailor your regimen based on your skin’s individual responses”.
However, those under 18 likely don’t need it, and young skin can be more sensitive to certain active ingredients, including retinoids, which can cause irritation, redness or peeling.
What Is the Retinol Purge?
The “retinol purge” also known as “skin purging” is a phase where you may notice an increase in clogged pores, redness, peeling, and breakouts after you start using retinol.
Because retinol works by increasing cell turnover, it is essentially just expelling all the dead cells and when they all come out in one go, it can result in some less than ideal side effects. Thankfully, a retinol purge is typically a one-time thing and once you’re through, you’re through! However, it has to get worse before it gets better.
How long does a retinol purge last?
While it will vary according to skin type, generally, a retinol purge will typically take around four weeks to complete.
You will likely notice symptoms around one-two weeks after you start using the product, and it will typically settle down around a month in.
If your skin is still struggling around two months after you started using retinol, it is time to reassess whether retinol is right for your skin type.
Can you avoid a retinol purge?
While you can’t bypass the purge with anything but luck, you can take steps to minimise its impact.
When introducing any active ingredient (including retinol) to your skincare regimen, it is important to do so slowly. Start introducing into your nighttime routine one or two nights a week, then build up from there.
