Once considered unfashionable beach footwear, the thong — or ‘flip flops’ as the Americans like to call them — has had a major glow-up recently. Whether flat or heel, rubber or suede; in the past few years, thongs have not only become acceptable for general wear away from the sand, but have been spotted on runways and glitzy global red carpets (courtesy of Jennifer Lawrence).
But where did this unexpected evolution start?
Thongs In History & Australia's Beach Culture
Despite their status as Aussie icons, the history of the thong is surprisingly un-Australian.
The shoe we recognise as a “thong” is one of the oldest styles of footwear, worn by various cultures around the world, so we can’t really claim it as our own invention.
In ancient Egypt, around 3,000 BCE, simple sandals resembling modern thong footwear were a common part of daily attire, and this was the same over in ancient Rome (around the 1st century BCE to 5th century CE).
In ancient Greece, during the 5th to 4th centuries BCE, athletes participating in the Olympic Games wore sandals that allowed for maximum mobility and comfort — this minimalist design became what we now refer to as the iconic Greek sandal. These sandals were very much in line with the thong footwear style, with straps between the toes to secure them in place, providing a simple yet functional design for athletic events. We literally can’t think of anything worse than running in some flip flops but hey, power to ‘em.
Thongs were also prevalent in sub-Saharan Africa, Japan and Korea. In Japan, traditional Japanese geishas, who often wore thong-like sandals with kimonos, continue this tradition today — a testament to how this simple footwear style has persisted through history.
Generally, the shoe’s purpose was to protect the sole of the foot while keeping the top of the foot cool, free and unrestricted. The commonality of the style is unsurprising given the design of the thong is remarkably practical: a simple strap that loops between the first and second toes, and another strap that wraps around the sides of the foot, securing it in place. The minimalist construction not only made them easy to produce, but ensured durability and affordability, making them perfect for warm climates and daily wear.
For Australians, thongs entered the conversation in the mid-1900s but ironically, it wasn’t Australians who first popularised thongs as beachwear. Rather, they were brought Down Under in the 1960s by American soldiers returning from the Pacific islands during World War II. Soldiers found comfort in knowing their feet could breathe in varying humid climates, and avoid foot problems like blisters or fungal infections. It wasn’t long before locals adapted and made them their own, swapping out the simple versions for more durable and stylish alternatives, including the iconic “Rubber Thong” that still reigns as a staple in Australian fashion today.
By the 1970s, thongs had firmly cemented their place in the Australian identity, largely thanks to their comfort, simplicity, and ability to handle both sand and surf.
It wasn’t until the mid-20th century, however, that the shoe became seriously synonymous with Australian beach culture. With Australia’s love for the outdoors, surfing, and laid-back coastal lifestyle, the thong became the footwear of choice for beachgoers and surf enthusiasts.
Over the decades, as trends evolved and cultures blended, the humble thong became more than just a practical choice — it became a symbol of identity. From the beaches of Bondi to the streets of Melbourne, thongs became the quintessential piece of relaxed Australian attire — so much so that wearing them became a statement of Australian identity.
From Everyday to Every Runway
Pre-pandemic, this simple footwear choice was shorthand for a relaxed, carefree attitude, and (let’s be real) was a symbol of less-than-polished style.
Often paired with board shorts or denim cutoffs, for the fashion-inclined, thongs were rarely seen as something to wear beyond the beach or backyard barbecues.
However, 2020 marked the beginning of a major shift. As the fashion industry began embracing more laid-back, street-inspired looks post-Covid, the flip flop started to move from the edges of casual wear to the centre of high-end fashion. What was once considered unsophisticated became the go-to shoe for an effortlessly chic look.
Leading luxury brands like Prada, Balenciaga, and Fendi are among many embracing the flip-flop in recent collections, often elevating them in their own ways. A co-sign by some of the world’s biggest luxury brands — as well as their cooler, IYKYK counter parts, such as The Row — has helped to propel the thong into the realm of “casual chic,” appealing to a broader audience than ever before.
This evolution has further been fuelled by the rise of “athleisure” and the growing demand for comfort in everyday fashion. As influencers and celebrities began pairing designer flip flops with everything from high-waisted trousers to sundresses, the line between casual and couture became increasingly blurred and thongs, now often seen in luxe leathers and in heel-form, began to make their way down high-fashion runways and fancy dining locations.
A buyer at The Iconic tells Cosmopolitan Australia, “Thongs are being reimagined with luxe materials such as leather and bold animal prints, and experimentation with heel shapes means the staple shoe style has become versatile enough to pair with elevated, fashion-forward looks,”
“We’ve seen a huge growth in the thong category, with key brands like Tony Bianco seeing a growth of +75 per cent on the year in Summer. With the Ives thong being the number 1 style, we have developed 2 exclusive colourways to feed the demand and give our customer a unique offering, Bisque Nappa and Liquor Nappa.”
“Similarly Billini had some great thongs and thong heels which saw an uplift of +89 per cent in sales in our key summer months.”
In a world where sneakers and slides are increasingly seen as wardrobe staples, but are not deemed formal-appropriate, thongs prove to be practical, comfortable footwear which demonstrate that even the most casual of shoes can, at times, tap into the worlds of high-end craftsmanship and luxury.
“The rise of comfort-driven fashion — seen in everything from oversized tailoring to understated footwear — reflects a broader shift towards practicality without compromising on style. Thongs, once purely functional, strongly align with this movement, offering a blend of ease and elevated design that suits both relaxed and fashion-conscious dressers,” says The Iconic buyer.
Are Thongs... On Trend?
According to numerous recent studies, in 2020 the global market for flip-flops, which includes thongs, was valued at approximately US$22.4 billion and expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.5 percent between then and 2028 — and that was just in the US. By 2030, we can expect the market value to reach US$31.24 billion.
As for us non-Americans, in 2021 alone, over 2 billion pairs of thongs were sold worldwide, with approximately 10 percent of the global population owning at least one pair (guilty).
For Australia in particular, thong sales are skyrocketing. “Last summer we saw Havaianas jump +58 percent, with almost 40 percent of sales driven by the new Square Toe shape — we can’t get enough stock of them,” says the buyer.
The journey of the thong, from humble beachwear to glam go-to, shows just how radically perceptions of comfort and style can shift, and how even the simplest of designs can take on new meanings in the world of fashion. As for what Aussie staple could be next? We’re calling a worldwide Akubra renaissance…
